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Fuel Related Issues




NOTE: There are no cures for bad fuel... there are only treatments to keep your fuel from going bad too soon. Listed below are some recommendations to assist our customers with this issue.

1) Buy a higher octane fuel from a reputable manufacturer.

2) Buy a fuel treatment/stabilizer such as Ethanol Shield for ethanol and to ensure your gas will last longer.

3) For 2 cycle products you can buy SEF 94 to eliminate bad fuel and ethanol completely...

Changing the oil of a Standard 17-22" Walk Behind Lawn Mowers

1)Run the engine for five minutes to warm the oil so it drains better. (Recommend only filling fuel tank with enough gas to run for five minutes before changing oil.

2)Remove Spark Wire from Spark Plug and Remove the dipstick.

3)Tip the mower onto its side (AIR FILTER SIDE UP!) to drain the used oil out through the oil fill tube into a drain pan. (Tipping the machine on its side is the recommended method by engine manufacturers. However, if you tip it with the Air Filter Down you will fill the crank up with oil and possibly the carburetor.

4)Let oil drain completely.

5)Tip the mower back up on its wheels and slowly pour new oil into the oil fill tube until oil level reaches the FULL line on the dipstick. (To properly check the oil level , wait one or two minutes after filling the engine with oil to allow it to settle. Wipe the dipstick clean, reinsert dipstick, remove dipstick and check oil level, repeat the process a second time.)

Important Do Not overfill - If you overfill the engine with oil you will need to remove the excess oil by following the oil draining steps listed above. Too much oil can cause engine damage or failure.

For complete step-by-step instructions, please consult your Owner's Manual or visit our location for the latest parts and literature for servicing small engines.

How do I properly store my lawn mower?
See your operator's manual for further details on performing any of the maintenance mentioned below.
If you're planning to do your own maintenance, please read the following tips which will help you be ready for spring.
Here is a list of basic maintenance procedures: (refer to your owner's manual for more specific information on your model)

Check the blade and engine mounting fasteners making sure they are all tight.
Clean/replace air filter
Drain and refill engine crankcase with fresh oil. Start engine to allow engine oil to warm up. (4-Cycle models)
Clean built-up grass clippings and dirt
Clean grass clippings and debris under belt cover and drive belt (self-propelled models)
Grease rear height adjuster brackets (self propelled models)
Sharpen or replace blade
Fuel System Preparation:

Add Fuel Stabilizer (Ethanol Treatment)  to the fuel in the tank.
Run engine to distribute stabilized fuel through the system.
Stop engine, allow to cool properly, drain fuel tank or run dry.
Restart engine and run till it stops.
Attempt to restart engine and run till it stops, repeat till engine does not restart.
Dispose of gasoline properly. Recycle per local codes. (Shops that work on small engines or automobiles will typically take old fuel for a small fee)
Do not store stabilized gasoline over 90 days.

Engine:
4-Cycle
Remove spark plug and put about one tablespoon of oil through the spark plug hole
Slowly pull the starter rope several times to distribute the oil.
Replace spark plug but DO NOT connect spark plug wire.

2-Cycle
Slowly pull recoil starter until resistance is felt due to compression, then stop.
Release starter tension slowly to prevent engine from reversing due to compression pressure. This position closes both the intake and exhaust ports to prevent outside entry, which can result in corrosion of the cylinder bore.
Store in a cool dry place, but NOT near a stove, furnace or water heater which uses a pilot light or any device that may create a spark.

Service Tips from Austin Outdoor Power

Pricing and Model Types are subject to change without notice. We reserve the right to change prices without changing the pricing on our website. 

Chainsaw Maintenance 
1)Find your equipment/operators manual for parts description.
2)Find the air filter. Refer to the operators manual.
3)Detach the filter and clean with soap and water.
4)Either substitute with a spare or let original dry and replace.
5)Check all screws and bolts for tightness.
6)Inspect the starter cord for free play in the spring when pulled out completely.
7)Make sure the cord is not frayed and the handle is not broken.
8)Find the flywheel and clean with toothbrush and a spray bathroom cleaner.
9)Find the pawls and clean with toothbrush and a spray bathroom cleaner.
10)Inspect chain for cracks and tooth wear. Replace when cracks appear or teeth are worn.
11)Clean the bar groove and sprocket teeth at the end of the bar with the toothbrush.
 
1)Make sure the chain catcher is secure and in place.
2)Check the chain brake by running the saw at full speed and activate the break.
3)The saw should stop immediately
4)Service if anything is not working properly.

Follow these steps at least every other time you use the saw and take your saw to a certified dealer if you find problems during this inspection.

 Walboro Carburetor Rebuild
Walbro carburetors are one of the most popular brand of carburetors on the market for small gasoline engines used in weed eaters, leaf blowers and some chainsaws. Over time, almost all carburetors will need rebuilding. The small rubber parts become brittle and can break, combined with small orifices becoming clogged from debris. By following a series of processes you can rebuild the small carburetor in a about an hour and keep hard earned cash in your pocket by doing it yourself.

Things You'll Need:
  Allen wrenches     
  Newspaper 
  Small set of jewelers type screwdrivers Philips and slotted
  Pocketknife
  Carburetor cleaner
  Small pair of needle nose thin jawed pliers
  Rebuild kit 

1) Remove the carburetor from the small engine using the set of properly-sized Allen wrenches. Place the carburetor on a firm flat surface that is covered with a few layers of the newspaper. Some gas may leak from the gas inlet tube and the newspaper will absorb the errant liquid.
2) Observe that there are two removable covers on opposite sides of the housing. One cover has four small screws and the other has only one large screw, centered in the middle of the thick aluminum cover.
3) Remove the four small screws from the housing of the carburetor, using the small jewelers screwdrivers. Set the small cover along with the screws to the side of the work area. Employ the sharp edge of the pock knife and carefully pry the rubber fuel pump gasket from the surface. You can set this part aside for the moment.
4) Turn the carburetor over and remove the large center screw on the thicker cover. Again use the pocketknife to pry the rubber gasket from the housing. Note that under the gasket lays a small needle valve held in place with a small plate and an even smaller Philips head screw.
5) Use the small jewelers screwdriver and remove the holding screw that secures the needle valve in place. As you pull the plate from the housing using the small needle nose thin jawed pliers, be aware that a very small spring resides under the plate. This spring is not contained in the rebuild kit so do not loose it. Remove the plate, small metal rod, small spring and the needle valve from the housing. Note that under this area is a small diameter screen , approximately 3/8 inch round. Pry the screen loose with the sharp end of the pocketknife.
6) Remove the small fuel control mixing screws marked "Hi" and "Lo" from the housing. Set these screws aside and be sure that the small springs enclosing the screws stay with the correct screw.
7) Use the carburetor cleaner and thoroughly spray the metal housing down. Pay particular attention to the small orifices and drilled holes. Attach the small diameter tube to the spray nozzle of the cleaner can and flush all openings in the metal housing. Allow the carburetor to completely dry before assembling the rebuild kit back into the carburetor.
8) Open the plastic bag of the rebuild kit and lay out all the parts that are contained in the sealed baggie. You will note that not all the new parts will match up to the ones you removed. The rebuild kits that are sold may contain additional parts for multiple Walbro carburetors. Match up the parts that you have removed and lay them out on the newspaper. Place the extra parts back in the plastic bag so they will not interfere with the rebuild.
9) Replace the new parts in exactly the order that you removed them. Insert the new small filter screen and push it down with your finger to properly seat the screen against the raised edge of the round housing hole.
10) Replace the new plate, lever arm and needle valve into the float area. The insertion of the small spring can be a little tricky but take your time. Lay the housing on the newspaper and then insert the screen into the machined hole. Lay the plate on top of the spring and then fit the needle valve into the catch part of the plate. The thin nosed pliers can help in holding the spring in place while starting the small Philips head screw.
11) Install the new gasket over the needle valve area and tighten the thick aluminum cover in place with the single screw. Assemble the "Hi" and "Lo" mixing screws back into their appropriate openings. Fully close the screw valves and then open them to 1 ½ turns for a rough adjustment.
12) Turn the housing over and install the new diaphragm fuel pump. The new pump may be a plastic composite instead of the rubber one that you removed. Walbro has changed this part and the new one works fine. Be sure to line up the two small placement peg holes with the openings in the diaphragm. Place the cover over the fuel pump area and tighten the small screws.
13) Install the rebuilt carburetor on the small engine and give it a try. You may have to readjust the "Hi" and "Lo" speed mixing valves on the side of the carburetor for proper operation.

Warning: Remove the spark plug wire Prior to performing any repairs on your equipment..

Austin Outdoor Power Equipment, Inc. 11104 North Lamar, Unit G,  Austin TX 78753      Copyright © 2010 AOPE all rights reserved
This Web-Site is designed and maintained by Jeff at Austin Outdoor Power

Serving Central Texas and the Greater Austin Area in Lawn Mower Sales, Service and Parts for 22 years in the same location.
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